Compiled by Q.-Tuan Luong for largeformatphotography.info
If you find it difficult to focus with your ground glass, you might
want to consider a replacement. Two things can make a ground glass
difficult to focus on:
In addition, the hot spot makes it difficult to assess the composition.
A finer glass will tend to have a worse light fall-off. Two solutions
are to add a Fresnel lens to even up the illumination, or to use a
Boss screen.
Although they do their job, the problem with Fresnel lenses is that
they work optimally only for one focal length.
On
the other hand, ALL the users of the Boss screen seem to like
it. The only drawback seem to be that this screen might be damaged
by extreme temperatures (hot and cold). I was relatively satisfied
with the screen on the 5x7 back of my tachi, which was a plastic
fresnel/ground combination protected by a sheet of glass. I found the
stock screen of my Canham difficult to focus on. I tried using a
fresnel lens, but I got weird problems with it. Then I switched to a
Toyo focussing screen, which has a considerably finer grain. This made
focussing easier but the hot spot was terrible. Eventually I switched
to a Boss screen, and I found it worked fine.
I tried a fresnel lens made by Arca-Swiss. The illumination is a bit more even than before, but I don't find the image to be much brighter. The thing which bugs me is that when I use wide angles, there is a very weird effect, with concentric bright rings which look like double images. They are extremely disturbing with a 90 lens, and noticeable with a 120 lens, to the point of preventing me from assessing the composition of the image in the corners. Rod Klukas from Photomark says that with any Fresnel this is going to happen for some focal lenghts (he observes the same with this 45 lens on 4x5), and as a consequence there is a folk he knows who has different backs with different fresnels that he switches as he switches lenses. Tuan
Bosscreen is made by a Dutch company called Stabitech (formerly "Stabilix", which went bankrupt towards the end of 2003). The company sells direct as well. The new website of the company is http://www.stabitech.nl You can place an order by email with them and wire your payment to their bank account. They can cut a screen at any size to fit your camera, but this took more than a month in my case. It's imported in the US and probably sold retail as well by Bromwell Marketing in Pittsburgh (412-321-4118). It was extremely difficult to get a screen through the specialty LF retailers.
I have heard that the temperature limit is around 140F, which is easily reached in summer in a car trunk. Chris Newman writes "I am on my third one, one damaged by extreme cold the other by moderate heat (90 degrees)". Myself, I didn't have any problems until a summer trip to the Rocky Mountains, (where it doesn't get that hot). Since then, I have the dreaded bubbles. They do not interfere so much that the screen would not be usable, however are enough of a nuisance that I will replace it. One frequent concern about the Boss screen is that the position of the plane of focus would be wrong, but this has been addressed properly:
Basically, the sheets of glass of the Bosscreen are two different sizes. The one which goes closest to the lens is small enough to fit INSIDE the area on which the ground glass usually rests. It is the inner surface of the piece of glass on the viewing side which actually seats on the routed out area that the ground glass normally sits. This then puts the inner surface of this outermost piece of glass in the correct focal plane, which means, of course, that the wax is actually too close to the lens at this point. To compensate for that, there is a piece of plastic (they call it "tape") along the edges on the inner side of the glass which sits in the rout. This tape is sufficient to correctly space the glass back far enough to put the wax in the correct focal plane. David Fokos.
The layer of glass between the lens and image forming plane probably affects the focus position. Probably why the real Boss screen comes with some shims. Otherwise the smaller front glass should put the wax layer in the same position as the ground side of the ground glass (assuming you are using a camera designed to have no fresnel between the ground glass and the lens, some cameras like most speed graphics were designed to always have a fresnel mounted in front of the GG). I've heard that the layer of glass moves the focus point back by about 1/3 the thickness of the glass if I'm remembering right. I'm sure it depends on the index of refraction of the glass, but this probably doesn't vary much unless you are using some exotic glass type. John Sparks
List compiled by Craig Blurton (originally posted in a LF Forum thread):
FOCUSING SCREENS MADE BY THIRD PARTY MANUFACTURERS
Beattie Intenscreen
www.intenscreen.com
BosScreen
www.stabitech.nl/Bosscreen.htm
BrightScreen
http://www.brightscreen.com/view.html
Maxwell Precision Optics UNOFFICIAL website
www.mattclara.com/maxwell/index.html
Maxwell Precision Optics
Contact Bill Maxwell <maxwellprecisionoptics@yahoo.com>
Satin Snow
www.satinsnowglass.com
Velveteen View screen
Contact Greg Garret <garretart7@yahoo.com>
EXAMPLES OF FOCUSING SCREENS MADE/SOLD BY MANUFACTURERS FOR THEIR CAMERA
Ebony Fresnel Lenses
http://www.ebonycamera.com/acc.html
Canham Fresnel Lenses
http://www.canhamcameras.com/accessoryf.html
Linhof Super Screen
www.linhof.de
Sinar Fresnel Lenses
http://www.sinar.ch
Wisner Fresnel Lenses
http://wisner.com/Page19.html
Wista Fresnel Lenses
http://www.wista.co.jp
EXAMPLES OF GENERIC FRESNEL LENS THAT CAN BE ADAPTED FOR USE AS A FOCUSING SCREEN WITH A CAMERA
3DLens.Com
http://www.3dlens.com
Edmund Optics
http://www.edmundoptics.com